Crooked Stave Brewing: How One Denver Brewery Put Colorado Wild Ales on the World Map

By Colorado Micro Breweries

<p>Long before wild ales and barrel-aged sours became ubiquitous in American craft beer, Chad Yakobson was studying Brettanomyces in a Scottish laboratory and dreaming of opening a brewery dedicated entirely to these funky, complex beers. In 2010, he founded Crooked Stave Artisan Beer Project in Denver, and in doing so, helped establish Colorado as a serious contender in the world of wild fermentation alongside Belgium's legendary lambic producers. Today, Crooked Stave stands as one of America's most respected wild ale breweries, and its influence ripples through Colorado's thriving sour beer scene.</p>

<h2>From Dissertation to Denver: The Scientific Foundations of Crooked Stave</h2>

<p>Chad Yakobson's path to brewing royalty began at Heriot-Watt University in Edinburgh, Scotland, where he completed his Master's dissertation on the sensory characteristics of Brettanomyces yeast. At a time when most American brewers considered Brett a contaminant to be avoided at all costs, Yakobson was meticulously documenting how different Brett strains could create desirable flavor profiles—fruity esters, earthy phenolics, and that characteristic barnyard funk that defines great wild ales.</p>

<p>This scientific approach set Crooked Stave apart from its inception. Rather than simply mimicking Belgian brewing traditions, Yakobson applied rigorous methodology to understand exactly what was happening during fermentation. He isolated specific Brett strains, experimented with fermentation temperatures, and carefully documented how these variables affected the final beer. The result was a brewing philosophy that married Old World tradition with New World innovation—a combination that would become Crooked Stave's calling card.</p>

<p>When Crooked Stave opened in 2010, the craft beer landscape looked dramatically different than it does today. IPAs dominated tap lists, and barrel-aged stouts were just beginning their ascent. Dedicating an entire brewery to wild ales and sour beers seemed risky at best, foolhardy at worst. But Yakobson's conviction—backed by his academic research—proved prescient. Within a few years, Crooked Stave's bottles were being traded internationally, and beer enthusiasts were making pilgrimages to Denver specifically to taste his creations.</p>

<h2>Surette: The Saison That Defined Colorado Wild Ales</h2>

<p>If one beer encapsulates Crooked Stave's impact on Colorado brewing, it's Surette Provision Saison. This golden-hued farmhouse ale, fermented entirely with Brettanomyces, became the brewery's flagship and remains one of the most sought-after wild ales in America. The name "Surette" references the French word for "sour," though the beer itself delivers far more complexity than simple acidity.</p>

<p>Surette pours a hazy golden color with a pillowy white head, releasing aromas of lemon zest, white pepper, and hay. The flavor profile walks a beautiful tightrope—tart enough to be refreshing, funky enough to be interesting, but balanced enough to remain approachable. Notes of stone fruit, light citrus, and earthy Brett character mingle with a crisp, dry finish that begs for another sip. At around 5.5% ABV, it's sessionable enough for extended enjoyment, yet complex enough to warrant contemplative sipping.</p>

<p>What makes Surette particularly special is how it demonstrates Brett's potential when given center stage. Many breweries use Brettanomyces as a supporting player in mixed-fermentation beers, but Surette is 100% Brett-fermented. This showcases the yeast's full range of capabilities—its ability to create not just funk, but also beautiful fruity esters and complex phenolics. The beer ages gracefully, too; older bottles develop honeyed characteristics and deeper fruit notes while maintaining that signature Crooked Stave balance.</p>

<p>For Colorado visitors seeking to taste Surette, the flagship taproom at The Source Market Hall offers the freshest pours. The brewery typically has Surette available year-round, though special variants—Surette aged in wine barrels or with added fruit—appear seasonally. Bottles are distributed throughout Colorado and can be found at better beer shops like Argonaut Wine & Liquor in Denver or Hazel's Beverage World in Boulder.</p>

<h2>The Source: A RiNo Destination for Wild Ale Enthusiasts</h2>

<p>Crooked Stave's taproom at The Source Market Hall in Denver's River North (RiNo) Arts District has become a pilgrimage site for wild ale lovers. The Source itself is a renovated 1880s brick foundry building that now houses an artisan food hall, and Crooked Stave anchors one corner with a sleek, modern taproom that feels more upscale wine bar than traditional brewery.</p>

<p>The taproom features around 20 taps pouring the full range of Crooked Stave's creations—from the approachable Surette to intensely funky barrel-aged wild ales and fruit-forward sours. The knowledgeable staff can guide visitors through the selection, offering tastes to help find the right beer for your palate. Unlike many brewery taprooms that feel industrial or rustic, Crooked Stave's space features wood accents, comfortable seating, and large windows that flood the room with natural light.</p>

<p>Practical tip: The Source gets crowded during weekend brunch hours (10 AM to 2 PM), when the food vendors are particularly busy. For a more relaxed tasting experience, visit weekday afternoons between 2 PM and 5 PM. The taproom is open Monday through Thursday from 11 AM to 10 PM, Friday and Saturday from 10 AM to 11 PM, and Sunday from 10 AM to 10 PM. Parking can be challenging in RiNo, but there's a small lot behind The Source, and street parking is usually available within a few blocks.</p>

<p>The Source location also offers the advantage of pairing Crooked Stave's beers with food from the market hall's various vendors. The acidity in wild ales makes them exceptional food beers—try Surette with oysters from The Butcher's Bistro, or pair a fruited sour with artisan cheese from Culture Meat & Cheese.</p>

<h2>Crooked Stave's Influence on Colorado's Sour Beer Scene</h2>

<p>While Crooked Stave pioneered wild ales in Colorado, the brewery's influence extends far beyond its own taproom walls. Today, Colorado boasts a thriving sour and wild ale culture, with numerous breweries dedicating significant resources to barrel-aging programs and mixed fermentation. This didn't happen by accident—Crooked Stave's success demonstrated that there was a market for these beers and that Colorado's climate and water could produce world-class wild ales.</p>

<p>Casey Brewing & Blending in Glenwood Springs followed a path similar to Crooked Stave, focusing exclusively on oak-aged, bottle-conditioned sour beers. Founder Troy Casey worked at Crooked Stave before striking out on his own, and the influence shows in Casey Brewing's meticulous approach to fermentation and aging. Their Family Preserves series—saisons aged on Colorado fruit—has earned comparisons to the finest Belgian lambics. The brewery's rustic tasting room, located in the mountains west of Denver, offers a completely different vibe from Crooked Stave's urban setting but shares the same commitment to wild ale excellence.</p>

<p>Black Project Spontaneous & Wild Ales, also in Denver, took Crooked Stave's scientific approach even further by focusing on spontaneous fermentation—allowing wild yeasts from the environment to inoculate the beer naturally. Located in the South Broadway neighborhood, Black Project's small taproom (open Thursday through Sunday) features an ever-rotating selection of mixed-fermentation beers, fruited sours, and spontaneous ales. The brewery's DREAMLAND series showcases how Colorado microbes can create beers that rival Belgium's coolship-fermented lambics.</p>

<p>Even breweries not exclusively focused on wild ales have expanded their sour programs in Crooked Stave's wake. Avery Brewing Company in Boulder operates an extensive barrel-aging program that includes sour beers alongside imperial stouts and barleywines. Their El Gose and Raspberry Sour showcase more approachable styles for drinkers new to tart beers, while barrel-aged offerings like Lilith and Mephistopheles Sour appeal to serious sour beer enthusiasts. Avery's taproom, open daily from 11 AM to 11 PM, allows visitors to explore the full spectrum from hoppy IPAs to funky wild ales under one roof.</p>

<h2>Visiting Colorado's Wild Ale Trail This Fall</h2>

<p>September and October offer ideal conditions for exploring Colorado's wild ale scene. The weather remains pleasant for outdoor taproom seating, harvest season brings fresh Colorado fruit to fruited sours, and the changing leaves provide a spectacular backdrop for brewery visits outside Denver.</p>

<p>A wild ale-focused brewery tour might start at Crooked Stave's Source location in RiNo, where you can taste Surette and explore the brewery's seasonal offerings. From there, it's a short drive to Black Project to experience spontaneous fermentation's unique character. Both breweries are located in walkable neighborhoods with other attractions—RiNo is home to dozens of galleries, murals, and restaurants, while South Broadway offers vintage shops and music venues.</p>

<p>For those willing to venture beyond Denver, Casey Brewing's mountain location makes an excellent day trip. The two-hour drive west on I-70 passes through spectacular mountain scenery, and Glenwood Springs offers hot springs and hiking as complementary activities. Casey Brewing operates on a reservation-only basis for bottle releases and special events, so check their website before planning your visit.</p>

<p>Fall also coincides with several wild ale releases and special events. Crooked Stave typically releases special variants of their core beers throughout autumn, often featuring Colorado ingredients like Palisade peaches or Western Slope wine grapes. The brewery's social media channels announce these releases in advance, and the taproom at The Source provides first access.</p>

<h2>The Legacy Continues</h2>

<p>More than a decade after Crooked Stave's founding, Chad Yakobson's vision has fundamentally shaped Colorado's craft beer landscape. What began as one brewer's academic fascination with Brettanomyces has evolved into a statewide movement that positions Colorado alongside Belgium and California as a world-class producer of wild and sour ales.</p>

<p>The Crooked Stave brewing history serves as a reminder that innovation in craft beer doesn't always mean chasing the latest trend or pushing IBUs higher. Sometimes it means looking backward to traditional styles, applying scientific rigor to understand them deeply, and executing them with unwavering commitment to quality. Surette Provision Saison stands as testament to this approach—a beer that honors farmhouse brewing traditions while tasting distinctly Colorado.</p>

<p>For visitors to Denver this fall, a stop at Crooked Stave offers more than just excellent beer. It's an opportunity to taste the beer that helped define Colorado wild ales, to understand how scientific inquiry and brewing artistry can combine to create something special, and to experience firsthand why The Source has become a destination for serious beer enthusiasts from around the world. Whether you're a longtime sour beer fan or curious newcomer, Crooked Stave's taproom provides the perfect introduction to Colorado's thriving wild ale culture—one tart, funky, utterly delicious sip at a time.</p>